From the mood to food, Vine is breaking new ground

4 stars (four stars) Tre Vigne, which began operations in 2000, is now called Vine but that is far from the only change at this exciting establishment.

What was a nice, upscale primarily Italian restaurant became a real destination last month after undergoing a complete renovation and a change of course in the food it offers. The new name is symbolic of the establishment's style and streamlining; tre vigne means ``three grapevines.'' Vine is more concise, a perfect match for the unfussy, yet striking, decor and food that benefits from a variety of influences.

Italian cooking has not been abandoned entirely. Chicken scarpariello ($21) is a classic mingling of boneless chicken breast, sweet sausage and hot cherry peppers, while equally tried-and-true rigatoni Bolognese ($18) also is available. Some of the dishes with an Italian undercurrent, however, take a different twist. The risotto that comes with the pistachio-encrusted king salmon ($25) is enhanced by the addition of sweet peas and black truffles. Fried calamari ($10) has the usual spicy marinara sauce, yet it is served with a lime mousseline as well for a more imaginative element

. But the globalization of the restaurant is represented by many more dishes. There's ahi tuna tartare ($12) with grilled pineapple and miso remoulade for a taste contrast. A shellfish bouillabaisse ($28) also is available. The barbeque glazed rack of lamb ($34) is typical of the subtle way dishes are tweaked at Vine. The charred jalapeno and mint pesto adds refreshingly different notes to the perfect meat, also served with crushed young potatoes and mirepoix (diced vegetables). Eric Gomez, who has been with the restaurant from the beginning, moved up from sous chef several years ago to the top job in the kitchen, and now enjoys a freer hand to flex his repertoire.

He is deft with fish, especially the potato-crusted tilapia ($25) with roasted asparagus. An aromatic red wine reduction and a touch of sour cream add sophistication and depth. A special of pesto-crusted striped bass ($26) over spaghetti squash got a note of slightly salty contrast from prosciutto, all smoothed over by a Chardonnay sauce.

When I see Maryland crab cake on a menu, I usually sigh and try to skip it if something more interesting is available. Too often it's just boring, boring, boring. Vine's version ($12), happily, is anything but. It included peppers and came with a paper-thin-sliced radish/cucumber salad and a caper scallion remoulade that hit the high notes

. Vine also does well with classics. Exquisite wild mushroom bisque ($7), smooth and light, got a lilt from truffle chive creme fraiche. The word ``colossal'' in the chilled colossal crab meat cocktail ($15) turned out to be no exaggeration. There was an impressive amount of tender, sweet crab in this one. It benefited from not only a cocktail dipping sauce, but also a zingy scallion horseradish sauce.

The meat on the braised beef short ribs ($27) fell off the bone just the way it should. There were no gimmicks here, just sauteed spinach and garlic mashed potatoes, with a Barolo wine reduction caress.

Desserts were alluring, from the lovely poached pear duo (one prepared in white wine, the other in red) with gingerbread cake and extravagant mascarpone vanilla bean gelato ($8) to flourless chocolate hazelnut praline tort with chocolate hazelnut-studded gelato ($8.50) and the warm chocolate cake nestling with pistachio gelato ($9). Gelato and sorbet are made in-house and can be ordered separately for $6.50.

The service left nothing to be desired. We were positively coddled by members of the staff, even those who weren't serving our table, to make sure all was as it should be. Orders were taken with the proper decorum, everything arrived at the right temperature (no small feat) and empty plates got whisked away unobtrusively. It was a great feeling of security; we always knew help was at hand.

The descriptive menu included printed specials as well as a list of mostly California wines by the glass ranging from $7 for the Ruffino Chianti to $11 for the Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay Russian River Ranches. The roster of wines by the bottle was as well-done as one would expect at a restaurant of this caliber, offering good variety and prices. The decor is inviting, starting with the eye-catching red awnings. That note is matched in the interior, where red and orange, tempered by gray, predominate for a feeling of warmth. A pattern of circles and squares from mirrors and lights to the upholstery is offset by the softness of plants and flowers in niches and windows. The room is well sound-proofed and quiet enough to have subdued conversation. There's a trendy separate small bar where you can grab a bite with your cosmopolitan if you want to do more than just drink.

With its new look, the place may not seem familiar to you, but it was once Girafe, a leading-edge fine dining restaurant in the 1980s and 1990s.

This incarnation breaks new ground gracefully and is an appropriate stop for those who want a fine meal in relaxing surroundings with just the right hint of excitement.