As we get ready to ring in 2007, I'm taking a last look at my top dining experiences of 2006.

How does a restaurant make my list of favorites? First, it must be one that I reviewed during the past 12 months. That is why so many highly regarded places among my all-time bests -- Ixora in Whitehouse, the Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster, Stage Left in New Brunswick and Serenade in Chatham, to mention a few -- are missing from this lineup, since I didn't write about them in 2006.

In some years, I have to decide among several four-star establishments for my number one choice. In 2006, however, it was easy. Vine was the only place I visited that rated four stars for its blend of ex cellent atmosphere, food and service.

What are my criteria? The quality of the food and its preparation are the most important elements, of course, and I also consider value for money spent. Consistency in the kitchen is key. Several restau rants that received high ratings from me this year are not on this list because they had a change of chef and I didn't revisit them. As a result, I included only nine restau rants instead of the usual 10.

There are many other factors I take into account when writing a review. Some are obvious, such as cleanliness in the dining room as well as what I can see of the kitchen (which often isn't visible, though I do try to look in through the back of the building if I can.) The condition of the restrooms is of great importance to me, too. No place should run out of paper towels or other essentials during the evening. If the restrooms aren't pristine, it tells me a lot about the way a restaurant is run.

Service is, of course, paramount, and this is one of the most difficult areas for restaurant owners. There aren't a lot of professional servers available, and not every establishment could afford them anyway. That means many places rely on part-timers and students. Even experienced managers can't be everywhere in a room or spend sufficient time training staff, so they are unable to counterbalance pure inepti tude. Service problems that de tract from a restaurant's rating start with a host who doesn't respond promptly to new arrivals, or makes guests wait more than a few minutes for a reservation to be honored. A big minus goes down for servers who can't be understood because of a language problem, are unable to respond know ledgably to questions about the menu (and don't seek answers from the kitchen), are overly familiar in their demeanor or don't come by to check on patrons.

Also detracting from a restau rant's rating is a long lag between courses, as well as busboys who remove plates and glasses before guests finish eating or conversely, leave empty plates on the table too long.

This is also the place for me to mention, as I have so many times before, that specials (unless there are just one or two uncomplicated choices) should be printed out with prices so patrons don't need to have them repeated, or query about what they cost.

I pay particular attention to the noise level, something that seems to have become a bigger sore point than it was years ago. I've been to more than one place that sounds like a sheet metal shop in high gear. Glitzy surroundings are great, but if they include marble or tile floors, walls of glass and high ceil ings, be prepared for a din at din- din.

I give a bonus to well-spaced tables and sound-proofing. Since my specialty is fine dining, I take it for granted that people who want a special meal and are paying a good bit for it would like to converse in normal tones with their companions, and in turn, be able to hear what's coming back across the table.

Most of the restaurants on my list are quite new, having opened either this year or in late 2005, and that's a good sign for the health of the industry.

Although Vine (95 Route 202, Basking Ridge. 908-221-0017) made its debut only this autumn, it was launched on the foundation of its predecessor, Tre Vigne, which had the same location and ownership. That provided a big advantage in hitting its stride early.

There are Italian options on the menu, but it's fun to go global here with such dishes as ahi tuna tartare with grilled pineapple and miso remoulade or the barbecue- glazed rack of lamb with charred jalapeño and mint pesto. Chef Eric Gomez is able to spread his wings and try different ideas, though there's nothing off the wall.

Vine also got a boost with me from its made-on-the-premises des serts. I look askance at any restau rant that doesn't make its own sweets, and am particularly pleased when the ice cream and sorbet also are produced in-house, as they are at Vine.

Service is just as it should be -- deferential, accommodating, unobstrusive and aiming to please, while the atmosphere is conducive to conversation without requiring patrons to strain either their ears or their voices.